Big-wave surfer “groomed, drugged and sexually abused by a family friend” as a tween finds solace in riding fifty-foot waves, “Do whatever you like to me. I surrender. Maybe I will die.” – BeachGrit

Big-wave surfer “groomed, drugged and sexually abused by a family friend” as a tween finds solace in riding fifty-foot waves, “Do whatever you like to me. I surrender. Maybe I will die.” – BeachGrit

“Surfing saved me from the dark side of the night.” The Portuguese big-wave surfer Joana Andrade, a tiny five-two in Havs, but relentless hunter and slayer of Nazaré rhinos, is the star of a documentary set for cinema release called Big vs…

First Session: England’s Big Wave The Cribbar – Magicseaweed

First Session: England’s Big Wave The Cribbar – Magicseaweed

Our First Session series peels back the legend on the first surfers at various famous spots from across the globe. We’ve already covered Teahupoo, Waimea, Anchor Point, Cloudbreak, Bali, J-Bay, Puerto Escondido, Mundaka, Hossegor, Jaws, Byron Bay, Huntington Beach, Germany, Tofino, Chicama, Malibu, Maldives, Bells Beach, Thurso, Skeleton Bay and Punta de Lobos. Let us know in the comments if…